I'm embarking on a new project for me. Pool coping using Oak concrete pavers. They are 8' wide by 12' long and 2 3/8' thick. They are being installed on a steel wall inground pool where the steel bond area is 4' wide. Coping sits on top of steel wall and overhangs 1'. The other 7 ' of block rests in a bed of mortar. Installation is for northern climate. First few blocks went down but i can see my mortar is like 3' thick. I need more gravel so my mortar is thinner. Also i forgot to brush on bond agent to underside of paver that is in contact with mortar for these first 9 blocks. Hope they hold. Bond between paver and 4' wide steal pool bond beam is made with PL 9000 (because this is the only product i could find that said it is for outdoor use for bonding between concrete & steel, and between concrete and plastic which is the stairs). Below are examples of how you can design your pool surrounds and the hard landscaping around it with SmartStone. The products that are most suitable for use around your pool, as well as the various laying patterns applicable to installing your flagstones and related bullnose copings, are detailed below. Best Bullnose pavers feature a rounded edge and are the perfect finish for the Stone Max retaining wall system, ledges, steps, flower boxes and swimming pool surrounds. All of Best’s Bullnose Pavers are tested to the meet the highest level of the Australian slip standards and are therefore perfect for use around pools. Install Bullnose Pavers Around Pool picture is in category Home that can use for individual and noncommercial purpose because All trademarks referenced here in are. This glue goes down in two beads, 3/8' thick. After coping is set up and leveled, i put a monster block on top to weigh it down so glue doesn't move paver during cure process. I'm leaving 3/8 to 1/2' gap for grouting. But i 'm not sure what product to use for grouting? I was thinking mortar in bag. But i really want this project to be successful so am open to suggestions. Pictures to follow later. It sounds like you are questioning the base under the paver and maybe are not realizing that this inground pool is NOT made with concrete, its made with steel walls. The base: the pool was installed professionally (someone else) and they back filled the excavation with 3/4' crush stoned since they knew i would be installing pavers. On top of the crush stone to within 1' of the pool bond beam (bond beam was about 6' above grade) i put down A-gravel and plate compacted in 4' lifts. The 1' left over is for the bedding material for pool decking and mortar for back end of pool coping. The final will be sloped 1deg away from pool. The above was described to me by pro so i sure hope its correct what was not mentioned was the jointing between pool coping so that's why i'm posting here to see if my plan is good/bad. ![]() ![]() This is to bump your thread but also looking for a bit of info on your situation as well. In the top picture there is the ledge the stone and block are setting on. Is that steel and part of the wall? Is is simply a flat piece folded outward or is it a box of some sort (which would obviously increase it's strength and ability to resist deflection)? Is there some purpose to stack the stone on top of the block below it? Personally I'm not sure I would like the squared edge of the top stone. Seems like doing a whale exit (that's where fat people like me kind of leap onto the edge of the pool on your belly and then you pull yourself out with your arms after that) might be a bit uncomfortable. A lower and rounded edge like just the bottom block seems like it would be better for that sort of exit but to me, it would also be more appealing as the resulting lines are simpler. Maybe round the edges of the top stone and eliminating the lower block? Anyway, more commentary than anything. That's right, just weighing it down while glue dries. The lower block is bull-nose coping, 1' overhang. I was told to keep the overhang to a minimum so that accessing the coping grove (on wall, under stone) to insert the winter cover wouldn't be troublesome. Actually i don't know if 1' is a minimum or not but seemed like it was. The bond beam is part of the steel pool wall. You could say its folded steel, not a box. I was walking on the steel before i had paver on it, was completely solid with no bounce whatsoever. If its subject to wet and freezing, plain mortar will likely fall apart. Install Bullnose Pavers Around Pool FloorIf you use mortar then maybe use some acrylic fortifier and then after it drys two coats of penetrating sealer to keep the water out. Sanded grouts are fine for outside. I used it on my 1/2' joints where temps in summer are 110+F and in winter we hit 20F. I put wire in the joints though. Freezing water is bad, thus a good seal is needed, it will be fine. As for the joint area that is over the water, a clay like mixture will work just fine, no wetter than that, force it into the joint, etc. Do the full joint at once (dont do sections of each joint and come back to finish, etc), etc. Install Bullnose Pavers Around Pool TableLowcountry Paver, Ultra Smooth Technology, WaterShed Permeable Paver, Perfect Paver Lifetime Guarantee, Lowcountry Paver Project Assurance Program, Lowcountry Cobble Collection, Tru-Brick, HardeeWall, Lowcountry Traditional Colors, Coastal Color Collection, Cool Pool Color Collection, Coastal Ridge Flagstone, Mall Stone, Plantation Paver, Lowcountry Square, Plantation Paver, Olde World Cobble, PermaFlow Cobble, HydraShed, Decor-Lok, and LPCI are registered trademarks of Lowcountry Block, LLC. Lowcountry Block, LLC. Dba/Lowcountry Paver. Bullnose Tile For Pool EdgeAll information is considered to be accurate and Lowcountry Paver is not responsible for any mistakes, typographical errors, or accidental misrepresentations. * We do our best to keep adequate inventory of stock product but cannot guaranty available at all times.
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